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After-market manufacturers like Interlock kit.com and have done a lot of research on older panels and their devices work well.
#Siemens generator interlock switch full
My opinion is that many HO's have older breaker panels that either wouldn't have an approved interlock kit made for it or do not warrant a full replacement. The Sq D Homeline (or QO) interlock kit that I posted has a metal frame that holds the generator breaker in place and that seems to be a more secure way to accomplish the same thing.Īs Infinity stated, if you can't pass an inspection what's the point of installing an after-market device. I don't see it that way but it wasn't worth arguing the point.
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He claimed that the cable tie could become compromised over time, crack and fall off. One of the gripes an EI had was that the after-market devices come with a cable tie (or two) that holds the generator breaker and the adjacent breaker in place.
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After about 30 minutes of tingly and numbness, we are lucky that there are no lasting "physical" deficiencies.Ĭlearly it may have been worse if she closed the main without opening the generator, or just the shock hazard from the main from my own negligence, but I still think it is a code compliant installation. After opening the generator breaker, she went to operate the 200A main, and after having difficulty getting enough leverage to close the handle, she put 2 fingers on the top of the main breaker which happened to be the incoming energized conductors. While I was out, the utility returned and my wife, feeling very capable, took it upon herself to perform the transfer that she has watched me do many times. I will admit that I personally have a Reliance panelboard with an interlock between the main and positions 2&4 in my own residence.Ī few years ago, I had the deadfront off for testing during a storm and was negligent in putting it back on before going out for work with the generator running. It’s an advertising scheme (I’d say strong arm tactic) from UL. The only time this gets this utterly stupid is that UL.com only tests to UL.org standards and only assemblies with UL Listed components (RU or UL) while EVERYONE else tests to a variety of Codes and accepts components from anybody. Are you saying you cannot drill mounting holes or drill holes for 2 screws let alone EMT fittings? There is a big difference between a Listed field installable modification where you are following the instructions on the field installable component as opposed to say drilling and tapping the bus in a Siemens panel to accept a Square D QOB breaker because the QOB was not Listed this way.

To suggest otherwise means you can only use manufacturer specified lugs, wiring, etc., is simply not correct. Actually it does because that relieves T&B of testing everyone else’s crimpers and relieves Greenlee and Milwaukee for instance of having to sell lugs. It doesn’t matter that T&B only Listed with their crimpers.
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But many crimpers are multi-brand and tested under UL and many use U series universal dies which are interchangeable amongst crimpers. If you read the T&B catalog they only state their lugs are Code with specific T&B crimpers. And as far as field installs go if I buy crimped on lugs and crimp them following manufacturer instructions (correct die and crimper), EVEN if it’s a T&B lug crimped with a Greenlee crimper using the correct Milwaukee U series due, it’s a Code legal crimp. If my shop rebuilds a motor with a UL sticker, it’s Listed. If I buy 508A parts and build a panel, I AM the “manufacturer” if it’s a 508A panel. Whether it comes from the manufacturer or not is immaterial.
